The Evolution of the American Palate

Posted by silvestrilv on

  I will be celebrating my 10th year in the United States in 2013. I flew in from London and never left this amazing country!

 I had the chance to live and visit different cities around the US and during these last 10 years, I have seen the evolution of our industry at every level.

 Just look today at the popularity of the TV/food shows! There are so many!

 People and Americans are really getting into food more and more! From the increase in food and wine retail gourmet stores, to the rising number of Celebrity Chefs – it is not a trend but here to stay.

 Chefs are now celebrities and promote the art of fine and good dining! It starts at home with families selecting healthy choices, organic products, and making smart choices for their children. As such, the development of gourmet food chains evolved – Whole Foods, Bristol Farms, Trader Joe’s, to name a few. There has been an increase in popularity of food markets that started hundreds of years ago in Europe, and an increase in Food and Wine Festivals, which I believe every city in this country, has at least one nowadays.

 In addition, there are also a number of cookbooks in the market. Celebrity Chefs are now writers too! I have a large collection myself of cookbooks from the greatest Chefs!

 With an increasing number of people dining healthier, followed by an exercise regimen, more and more people are becoming health fanatics.   

 10 YEARS AGO IT WASN’T LIKE THIS!!!

 So what changed? 

First of all, good food tastes good and makes you feel good. It is that simple! This is not news. This was a message Escoffier delivered many years ago!

 In the current environment where we are, all are so busy and so stressed with our day to day lives; however, good food and good wine makes us feel better!

 More and more foodies! This is contagious!

 It is easier to travel and get exposed to great food. We are bringing Italy, France, Asia, etc…back to the US!

 Growers, farmers, wine makers are also doing a better job. There is too much competition. Consumers today are quality driven. This is not just about volume anymore; it is now about producing an extraordinary product!

 So, what else has changed! ……….We did! We are looking for better stuff – from the truffle salt, the virgin olive oil imported from Italy, the dry meats: Prosciutto de Parma, Coppa, the greatest artisan cheeses, the nicest bread (baguette, focaccia, Ciabatta, etc..) and the list goes on and on!!!!

 We are changing. We are more educated about food, produce, wines, liquors and we are now looking for specific products.

 One more thing has changed in the last 10 years: globalization. We are travelling more, and we are now more exposed to foreign products and cultures, with good quality products now being imported into America.

 American food is not about fast food and BBQ anymore, although it remains a classic. Today, a burger could be a choice of kobe or prime beef, with a vast selection of buns, cheese (from gruyere, to Roquefort, and American cheese of course!) and the veggies.

 It is only getting better!

 On the restaurant scene, the bar has been raised too with all the big named Chefs opening restaurants in this country. There are a lot of different concepts but with only one thing in common: deliver a great dining experience for the guests, from the Gastro-Pub, the sandwich or Panini shop, the steakhouse, the fish house to the greatest fine dining! We are getting more than just good food; we are travelling and gaining great experiences!

 So now, what is next!?

 It is going to get even better!

 Children who once dreamt of becoming a doctor or lawyer are now aspiring to become the next top Chef. There are more advanced and great culinary schools these days. My recent visit to the CIA in Napa was eye opening. I wished I would have studied and learned culinary in such an amazing condition: outstanding facilities, passionate crew of professors, Chefs, and consultants present to train and share their knowledge with the students.

 Chefs are getting challenged to come up with new and greater ideas. The competition is more intense. They now have to reinvent, create, innovate, and surprise their audience.

 My final point is that you do not know it yet, but soon you will have your own garden at home and you will look at your tomatoes growing on the vines and seasonal products handpicked from your own backyard. Only a few fortunate get to have this privilege today, but it will surely evolve.

 Soon, I will own a piece of vineyard in the south of France and make a remarkable wine just for my friends to share!

 What is in your mind?

Napa Trip, The Greystone Flavor Summit

Posted by silvestrilv on

Time flies!! I just left San Francisco and as I write this, I am on a flight on my way back to Las Vegas.

Overall, the trip was AWESOME! The little things matter – amazing weather, blue skies, sunny days, wonderful hotel, great summit, good food (for the most part), LOTS of good wines, and the most important…good company. I was travelling with my colleague Olivier Dubreuil, our Executive Chef and Maitre Cuisinier de France.

We arrived on Wednesday night, checked in at The Silverado Resort and were welcomed with great landscaping, a golf course view, and the serenity of nature. It was just fabulous!

As we landed pretty late, we rushed to our first BIG restaurant, The French Laundry. I had never been there, but walked in with big expectations. First of all, I haven’t dined at many 3 Michelin Star restaurants (just a few French ones :) ) plus what I know about Chef Keller is the famous Bouchon, the classic Bistro from Lyon, where the food is as good as any Bouchon Lyonnais.

It starts with the freshly baked bread, butter, the warm pistachios, the charcuterie, the seafood bar, and the list goes on and on. One of my favorites – Simple and delicious consistently.

The French Laundry was a different experience. This place has so many accolades and the world speaks so highly of it. It is somewhat the James Beard house of Napa Valley!

 As for me, I found the living room tiny, the table was small, and we were seated in the corner by the staircase heading up…..Yes, it is an old home that was converted into a restaurant (pretty neat so far). I have to say the sense of hospitality at The French Laundry (and all of Napa) was amazing. Everyone made sure we had a great time. We started off with some Krug (can’t beat that); the staff offered to cook for us and picked the wines as well. I just love it when the restaurateurs take control of the experience. We had so many courses. I recall 15 and all of them were excellent. Wines were off the chart: Chassagne-Montrachet “Les Chenevottes” 2004, a nice Barolo, and a Dofi 2007 for the main entrée and cheese.

Everything was almost perfect; however, it was just too much food & wine and thus far, the most expensive meal I ever had.

 The following day, we visited Solage. I loved the concept of Solage, their spa and breakfast was amazing (Chef Sharp holds a Michelin star).

 The Flavor Summit kicked off in the afternoon where we met the team from Food Arts Magazine and an outdoor reception was hosted by the CIA.

 On the same evening, Olivier and I decided to have dinner at Bottega, Chef Michael Chiarello. Simple and affordable Italian dishes were ordered. This was a good surprise – great Italian food (unexpected), good wine list, great Napa vibe, great outdoor setting and good value (Important these days!).

 The following day, a tight schedule awaited us at the CIA with several presentations, tastings and conferences to attend to. I must say my favorites were that of Andrew Freeman and Harvey Steiman with Wine Spectator.

After a very long day, we decided to give Thomas Keller another chance and experienced Ad Hoc (took me 2 days to digest both the meal and the check from Wednesday night) for dinner. I liked its concept. I was very impressed with the front staff attitude and the entire team was just amazing. Food was simple, but good, and wine was great (I picked it this time!). We had an amazing outdoor experience! It was indeed Napa on your plate: casual, fresh ingredients, seasonal and set menu.

The last day of the summit came too soon. It was however delightful to see our friend and James Beard Award Chef Julian Serrano in the kitchen for breakfast before heading to class! Julian gave us a demo and allowed us to taste five samples of his food featuring California pistachios, simultaneously paired with Napa wines. A visit to the caves at Dariouch winery, coupled with tastings and a few purchases was also extraordinary. These were my favorites.

The summit was filled with culinary demonstrations, panel discussions, workshops, tasting receptions and seminars from culinary professionals such as Chefs, restaurateurs, bartenders, mixologists, publishers, etc. It was a learning experience. Let me share with you a few topics I truly enjoyed which caught my interest and attention:

Andrew Freeman: The Revolution has begun

 Starting a restaurant involves a lot of brainstorming and preparation. To start off, concepts which involve “building your brand and breaking the norms” are key elements to a successful venture. Reconnaissance follows in that we need to know our world. Awareness of the ethnicity and majority of our population must also be considered. What would appeal to our guests?

 As an example, with there being 22.8 million Americans who follow a vegetarian inclined diet and 7.3 million Americans who are vegetarian, a healthy type of food offering that will cater to everyone is worth considering.

 Think about the following:

• What are the top five restaurants in your market?

 • Who is coming to your hotel? If they are not coming, where are they going?

• Know the enemy and prepare for battle!

Competition is intense and there is a need to differ from the rest.

• Is the concept clear, fresh and innovative?

• What is the style?

• Is the experience safe or authentic for the guests?

• Bring local experience to life… with unique service styles, favorite foods, design elements, etc.

Andrew provided the top 12 Marketing & PR Tips:

• Identify the right target markets for your concept.

• Create a separate marketing & PR plan.

• Participate in high profile events.

• Collects contacts

• Maintain street presence with easily visible signage.

• Set up a dedicated phone line and answer that phone.

• Build partnerships to attract an entirely new clientele.

• Create a website vanity page dedicated to your business that is easy to find.

• Promote key personalities.

• Engage with the media.

• Keep your PR team in the loop.

• Engage in social media.

 Andrew was great and very upbeat which made the presentation enjoyable. He did leave me with something to think about and to remember….

 “Challenge what has always worked.”

“Reevaluate your brand strategy and core beverage program”

 “Don’t settle for mediocrity”

 Harvey Steiman, Wine Spectator: Building a list for all tastes

The message from Harvey was simple and true: all wine lists look alike. Major and recognized brands get the exposure on the wine list. He challenged us during a tasting to use smaller wineries producing better wines than big wineries producing too much of an average quality wines in some occasion. We all agreed during the tasting; however, in my opinion, the American consumers are looking for familiar brands that represent quality, consistency and value and do not venture in unknown or boutique brands. Smaller boutique wineries may have difficulties in handling the volume.

Sunday was our last day and another day filled with tasting: Anthrology and Cask 23rd. We blended some wines and had fun activities. Thanks to Antinori for hosting us. Our trip concluded with a luncheon at The Auberge du Soleil.

 As always, when I travel, I try to do and see as much as possible. Although there were some hiccups, the experience overall was amazing. I guess with every success comes some vulnerability.

This was my first time to attend the Flavor Summit and I must say, it truly was a remarkable experience.

 Let me take you now to Olivier’s journey to Napa as he narrates…………..

Napa Valley—California’s food and beverage countryside–this year’s host for the Greystone Flavor Summit. The conference was co- presented by The Culinary Institute of America and Food Arts Magazine and focused on the art of flavor in high-quality dining.

 During the conference, I met and mingled with high level food and beverage executives from all over the country. This incredible bank of knowledge afforded me the opportunity to hear and share ideas from many backgrounds and experiences. A gathering like this should not be limited to an event once every decade. Everyone was excited and motivated to learn new things, brainstorm with their peers and possibly bring back new concepts to their properties. A casual conversation might be the one bright idea that sparks something original and unusual—a new trend!

During the last 16 years in Las Vegas, it has been my impression that the American dining experience has undergone a transformation. Customers are more interested in higher quality flavors, authenticity, and new menu concepts than ever before. The summit focused a great deal on sustainability, local and organic production and waste minimization. From the tiny restaurant to the massive operations of Las Vegas, these concepts hold true. It is important to try and remember that we must start at the beginning of the chain: local farms, minimal packaging, fresh, and quality products. This can be achieved even in the desert of Nevada. Organic and vegetarian menus have reached an all time high across the country and we have been feeling the push here in Las Vegas. A young generation of clients is bringing a fresh approach to menu design and our menus are starting to show some growth. Small plates, tapas, dietary restrictions, allergies, and organic and vegetarian dishes are no longer a trend or an oddity…they are considered part of the mainstream pool from which we gather offerings to present to the customer.

 Let’s not forget that we have a hand in creating the next generation of foodies. It is our responsibility to teach our children about the food in their world, to create an understanding and respect for our planet and its resources. The future of food and sustainability rests in their hands and we need to arm them with the knowledge today to help them appreciate and value food in the right way.

CIA-Greystone was the ideal place to host a summit with regard to the future of food and our industry. Finally, a culinary school that makes us feel as if we landed in a cuisine MECCA and not some night class for a would be cook. The school is a Hogwarts of sorts; a culinary college for those passionate about food and all of its possibilities. Absent in the halls of this stoneclad building were the Next Food Network Star wanna bees. These hallowed halls are reserved for the next generation of culinary thinkers; chefs that think with their hearts and palates. It was a pleasure to attend classes in such a fantastic facility. The kitchens, classrooms and theater are home to some of the most zealous teachers and enthusiastic educators. It reminded of the great culinary schools of Europe—so full of promise.

 Outside the walls of Greystone, Napa Valley had a kaleidoscope of culinary delights to offer. I dined at the prestigious 3-star Michelin restaurant, The French Laundry–a 15-course tasting menu with wine accompaniment that included Santa Barbara Sea Urchin and Devil’s Gulch Ranch Rabbit Sirloin. Another evening I was treated to a lovely meal at Ad Hoc in nearby Yountville. Fresh local salad and organic chicken served family style on an outdoor patio. Service was friendly and welcoming and added a great deal to the experience. From these two meals, on opposite sides of the dining spectrum comes the question—is one better than the other because of price or location?

 At the end of the day, it is the non food experience that contributes just as much to the pleasure of dining as the actual food. A simple menu, with delicious, fresh products can be just as satisfying, if not more so, than a multi course culinary adventure. It begins and ends with the same principle. A principle that is just as true now as it will be in the future – if you appreciate the flavor, effort and passion put into the making of a meal, it is sure to be a winner.

SPRING TIME!

Posted by silvestrilv on

 

                 Here it comes. . . . . following a rude winter, here comes Spring!

 Cherry blossoms, spring vegetables, warmer weather, daylight saving time with our days lasting longer and Easter being just around the corner – this is probably one of the most exciting seasons! 

 People get to work on their gardens, backyards.  It is the time to plant.

 It is also an exciting time for the food and beverage industry as restaurant Chefs get to launch their Spring menus and say bye-bye to the winter truffles, venison, wild mushrooms and instead welcome fresh new Spring dishes!

 The Pastry Chefs get to work on their egg and chocolate displays as well.

 In Las Vegas or the West Coast in general, we work on our pool program. It gets more and more complex every year and for some of us, as the pool season ends, we start working on the following season.  It takes a lot of planning to be successful.

 Pool business in Las Vegas represents millions of dollars.

 The pool welcomes several thousands of guests a day that are looking for outdoor activities! Breakfast, lunch, light fare, ice cream, beverage, frozen cocktails, pitchers, bottle service, retail, spa. . . . . and the list goes on! 

 People end up spending more on their pool experience sometimes rather than on their room amenities.

 Pool party is also the new phenomenon.  Day life is replacing nightlife or competing hardly with it.  The DJs are the new celebrities to attract masses.  Top grossing clubs may gross in excess of $70 Million with gross margins being higher than we know of in the F&B industry.

                 On my end, I am planning to escape Las Vegas for a week.

 DESTINATION…            NAPA VALLEY!

                               My last visit to Napa was extraordinary.  I felt for a minute being back home.  All the vineyards surrounding us, the lifestyle of the locals, outdoor dining (during lunch) with wines at the table, SO MUCH FUN!

                 I think Napa is a country of its own!

                During my last visit, Michael Mondavi took us to his vineyards.  We tasted some fabulous wines and his signature M. (Fabulous by the way!)

                 We visited the wineries of Nickel & Nickel as well. Rubicon is one of my favorites too!

                 This time, I am heading to Napa to attend a Food and Beverage Summit hosted by Food Arts at The Culinary Institute of America.

                               I am definitely planning to visit the French Laundry for dinner, Bouchon Bakery and other fabulous spots.

                 I hope this season will be enjoyable for all. I wish everyone a Happy Easter and a wonderful Spring!

                 A bientot!

WINE TRENDS . . . BEVERAGE TRENDS? IT IS UP TO YOU!

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When I grew up in France, I recall those Sunday afternoons with friends and family at a long table with meals lasting almost the whole day. It started around 1 p.m. with aperitives, either chilled white wine, Kir or champagne for special occasions. During the course of the meal, I would see bottles of Cotes du Rhone, Bordeaux and Burgundy lining up on the table.   Lunch would end just before dinner time with fine cognac or Armagnac.

                 Things have changed since then – both in Europe and in the United States!

                 Today, consumers stay at the dining room table much less and it is not necessarily about wines anymore.  Global influence and mondialisation, or globalization, has brought the best of all worlds within one dining experience.

                 I have dined at a few Michelin Star restaurants this year where my meal was paired with champagne, a cocktail, beer or sake. Guess what? I do not have a problem with it!

 When I walk around the restaurants at our property, I see guests drinking martinis or vodka and Red Bull with their meals.

                  Mixology has also played a huge role and the qualities of drinks have increased dramatically.  Bartenders are now called mixologists (although not all them can share this recognition) and are putting more effort in their drinks than in the past.  They are acting like Chefs developing recipes, creating their syrup, infusions, squeezing lime or lemon juice a la minute and extracting flavors.

                 Now a Bloody Mary is more than a spicy tomato juice with vodka. 

                 I have considered myself a purist when it comes to food and wine, but I have experienced a drink being so good, so well balanced, that it felt like I was drinking a whole fruit, and I kept drinking and reordering it versus ordering a bottle of wine.

                 Back to wines – overall, I remembered France and Italy being some of the largest wine producers in the world with an average quality wine in the 70’s-80’s and stories of grapes being purchased in Italy to produce a French label.

                 All of these stories are behind us.  Quality has been the main focus for the last 20 years and is EVERYWHERE.

 I think we can drink nice wines everywhere.  I have had great experiences in Napa, New Zealand and all over Europe where people have learned and mastered techniques. Bordeaux, Burgundy and Champagne all have a specific terroir, weather/soil, etc. that along with the grapes, produces fabulous wine.

                 So, we can find great wines almost everywhere.  What are the trends?   Who cares? What matters is what you like and enjoy drinking!

                  Among my favorites are Blanc de Blanc (I honestly believe Chardonnay produces the finest Champagne); the rich White Burgundy (The Meursault, The Puligny, The Montrachet); the fabulous Bordeaux from Margaux; St. Julien; the Pomerols; the Hermitage the Chateuneuf du pape; The Tokaji from Hungary or the Alsace (Vendange Tardive).

                 Oh, I forgot the Bandol and Tavel in the summer for outdoor barbeque!

                               Let me share a story about trends. Four years ago, I remember Riesling was the new “hot thing.”  All sommeliers and a few MS (Master Sommelier) told me it was their favorite grape for a variety of reasons: It pairs great with food and it has so many variations, etc.   I, however, disagreed and believe Burgundy and Champagne will always be the most favorable drink of all time. However, when we come to think of trends, it all boils down to our own preference and what suits our taste that matter most.

                 Marketing and social media play a big role in what consumers are drinking. The new generation does not drink wine as much as my generation or the one before.  Wine drinkers typically either wine educated or grew up around people drinking wines.

                 In the United States, I see people drinking beer or spirits like we drank wine in Europe.

                 I think a return to the tradition is on the agenda!

Follow Sebastien Silvestri on @SilvestriLV

CAPITALIZING ON YOUR FOOD AND BEVERAGE PROGRAM

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Lets start with the basics and fundamentals:           

While they dine, you must give them a great time.

 We are in the food and service business so let’s get the basics right: food needs to look good (color, presentation, volume in the plate, etc.), taste good and then service needs to be very good. It’s that simple! On top of this, everything needs to be consistent all of the time, over and over again and all of this needs to be served with a smile, sincerity and a warm sense of hospitality.

 When I visit my favorite restaurant, I always ask for the quail farcie with fois gras with mashed or butter potatoes. I’ve jokingly complained to the executive chef that the menu doesn’t change enough, but let’s face it – they are so consistent and everything tastes so good, that it works for them, and they don’t need to change a thing.

 The same is true with beverage. Everybody orders a drink at a hotel bar or restaurant expecting it to be a pleasant change from the drinks served in other bars so your wine and cocktail list needs to mix well with the food and overall identity of the restaurant. The restaurants at The Venetian and The Palazzo understand this concept well – Carnevino offers the best Bellini; Fusion Mixology Bar presents a Pisco sour that transports you to Peru; and Dos Caminos serves an out-of-this-world margarita. We want to make sure our guests remember their drink and ask for it the next time as well as recommend to their friends.

 When it comes to hiring your staff – do not compromise. Take the time to hire the best, and then train the team until the restaurant’s standards are met and exceeded in order to deliver the experience and the attention to detail that is expected.

 No one is exempt from this formula, regardless of how small or large the restaurant is. Let’s take TAO Asian Bistro at The Venetian, the highest grossing restaurant in the country. They do up to 1,800 covers on a Saturday and the execution is flawless. The place is jam packed, the bar is busy, the place is pumping, the energy level is high and people are having fun. It is more than just a good dinner; it is an experience.

 Before they dine, you must reach out.      

 My first confession is that great food and beverage isn’t enough (although a really bad experience could be the end of it.) It takes more than good food and good service to be successful these days.

 A strategy in the industry that has become increasingly popular is the partnership with celebrity chefs. Celebrities in general drive covers, suite nights, ADR, press, etc. How many restaurants does Michael Mina run these days, or Tom Colicchio, or Jean George? For the guests that are familiar with the Chef, the brand is a sign of quality and they know they won’t get disappointed. Let’s face it – these guys know what they are doing.

 At The Venetian and The Palazzo, we understand the value in this concept and have Thomas Keller, Mario Batali, Emeril Lagasse, Wolfgang Puck, Luciano Pellegrini, Joachim Splichal and Sam DeMarco all under one roof, to name a few.

 Probably the most popular marketing strategy in the industry, especially in Las Vegas, is giving people deals they simply can’t pass up. Restaurant week, happy hours, two for one, buy one get one, 10,20,50% off, complimentary dessert…the list is endless and the channels of distribution are growing such as Travelzoo, Groupon and Four Square. Everyone is doing it. What is important is to measure what works and what doesn’t and ensure it drives incremental business and repeat customers.

 I have been against promotions for a long time as I saw it as brand damaging. However, in reality, good promotions work and this is what guests are looking for during low demand period. Summer in Vegas can be challenging – lower occupancy, lower rates – and driving guests in means giving deals.

 We implemented a bar hop program where guests could visit five bars in one night and receive a sample drink in each venue for a very low price. The bet was on the guest buying an additional drink and visiting us again and they did so the promotion was a complete success.

 However, all of these marketing efforts are surely futile if nobody hears about them. Advertising via cover pages and TV ads cost a fortune but having a truly engaged PR team who works closely with the F&B department can produce so much buzz, free press and magazine coverage at little to no cost. With the changes in technology happening faster than we can imagine, it’s imperative for the PR team to stay ahead of the game. The traditional marketing strategies aren’t enough anymore and promotions need to be communicated through social media as well including Facebook, Twitter, Four Square and Yelp.

 This summer, I did an event with the Nevada Restaurant Association at The Pools at The Palazzo. About 1,000 guests attended, mingling with Las Vegas’ 50 top restaurants and sampling what each restaurant offered as a signature taste of their cuisine. The event was very successful and NVRA was able to raise some dollars for their association. The following day, I stopped by CUT after work to grab something to eat before heading home, and decided to sit at the bar and order their sliders (fabulous by the way.) A few minutes later, a lady sat beside me, recognized me from the event the previous night and started a conversation. I asked her where she was from, how she found out about our Epicurean event and why she decided to attend. She basically told me that she was travelling on her own, staying at The Palazzo (good move so far) and didn’t know what to do on her first night.  She decided to check out Yelp and saw a lot of tweets on the Epicurean affair, about how great it was and where to get the tickets at the best price. Due to the traffic and interest that this event created, she decided to attend and had a great time. Amazing, right? These social media sites are becoming essential to our business and driving guests to venues – a kind of e-word of mouth! Since that day I have been taking social media seriously. It works! (Follow me on Twitter! @silvestriLV)

 Finally, it is always advisable for industry leaders and/or restaurant owners to be involved in community events. Learn to participate in and contribute to social activities, whether or not they relate to the industry. Be present in the social scene! Food and beverage, like other things, are about building relationships. If people know you and like you, they will most likely want to get to know your business.    

After they dine, you must follow up.

There are two important things you can look at to know if you’ve made business or not. First, will that guest come back? Business is made when you’ve satisfied a guest enough for him or her to return to your restaurant. This is why customer feedback is important. Staff members must be attentive to customer feedback, whether spoken or not, and report it to their managers. Happy customers equate to a successful food and beverage program.

For the unhappy campers, have a recovery program in place. Don’t let anyone leave with a bad taste in their mouth – literally or figuratively. Look at complaints as gifts and learn from them.

In the long run, dedication and passion are most important in running a food and beverage program.  A significant amount of time and energy is expected to meet customer demands and to deliver this special experience. All the long hours of hard work are worth it when you have created guest loyalty and they have experienced the finest things in life, a memorable dining experience.  After all, we strive to achieve only the best.